Thursday saw the shortlist for the fourth annual LVMH prize unveiled. Featuring some of the boldest young designers of this generation, the shortlist showcased a change in the next generation of fashion’s elite, listing several young designers who reference socio-cultural movements in their designs.
Proving that political and cultural awareness is not just a fad, the list of young designers include campaigners for PETA, ambassadors for gender non conformity and ethical slow fashion.
The deeply coveted prize awards one young designer 300,000€ and year mentorship with the executives of LVMH. Previous winners and runners up include Hood by Air, Thomas Tait and Vejas.
Know for her spicy girlhood designs, Central Saint Martins graduate Molly Goddard has hit the ground running since finishing her studies in 2014. Taking inspiration from her childhood, Molly often references boarding school, inappropriate party attire and nostalgia for coming of age throughout her designs. More recently, Molly joined a team of CSM graduates urging fashion students to deter from using fur in their collections. In collaboration with PETA Goddard penned an open letter asking up and coming designs to chose alternative fabrics.
26-year-old CSM graduate Charles Jeffrey made a name for himself when he began the infamous ‘Loverboy’ party night at Vogue Fabrics Dalston. Fuelled by inspiration from the clothing seen at his parties, Jeffrey created the ‘Loverboy’ collection, combining decadent club clothing and upmarket fashion. Jeffrey has been hailed as celebrating gender non conformity and freedom from his contribution to the London gay scene to the inspiration behind his collections.
Surprisingly not a CSM graduate, 23-year-old Maggie Hewitt spent her university years in New Zealand. Known for her sustainable approach to quality fashion, Hewitt secured a spot on Net-a-Porter’s list of emerging designers. Only manufacturing with organically dyed and ethically found fabrics, Maggie Marilyn is the perfect label for luxury staples. Transparent on where she manufactures and sources her materials, Hewitt ensures she utalises local factories and pays her workers a living salary.
Shunning show schedules the past few years, London based designer Martine Rose usually opts for unique ways to preview her collection. However, this season Rose showed her AW17 collection in the depths of the Seven Sisters and explored the notion of male sexuality. Using typical mundane male stereotypes (bus drivers, bankers and estate agents) Rose had masculine types juxtaposing with feminine references.
Cover image via Molly Goddard